Warmth in climate and hospitality show through in the wines of the Pfalz.  When we visited Weingut Messmer, we met with Gregor who runs the estate, but his PR man, father Herbert, dropped in to greet us.  Messmer’s flagship wines are the dry rieslings, grauerburgunder and weissburgunder, a little bit of fine gewurtztraminer and muskateller, and spatburgunder.  The whites range from everyday wines to “cru” Erste Lage from Michelsberg vineyard, Schawer and Goldener Jost, but they are all driven by purity of flavors.  This starts in the vineyard, where Gregor has moved from the common …

The benchmark pinot gris/grigio are from Alsace, Oregon and northeast Italy.  Pinot gris is a pale golden colored, medium-full bodied wine with peach and spice flavors.  The pinot grigio from Italy tends to be a much lighter, crisper style while Alsace pinot gris has the rich, full-bodied and oily style of a warm, dry region.  Oregon falls inbetween, with a fresh, fruit-driven character. 
Germany’s Pfalz region has a similar terroir to Alsace but is about 150 km (90 miles) to the north – and in Europe, small distances make a lot of difference.  The …