There are times when one is so struck by the quality of a producer’s wines  across-the-board  that they leave a lasting impression on you.  Chateau Saint Cosme in Gigondas in the southern Rhone is one of them and it changed the way I felt about Gigondas wines.  When we visited him in June, Louis Barruol had a boyish, relaxed charm about him as he strolled down the hill to greet us, his big fluffy dog bouncing behind him.  But as he led us around the property, there was no questioning the casual aristocracy laying beneath the 14th generation …

2008 was a cool and wet vintage in the Northern Rhone which led to some flowering problems in the Spring, disease pressure and vigor.  The best producers have steep, well-draining vineyard sites and practice active canopy management to allow aeration and maximize fruit exposure.  Most importantly, they hand harvest for severe selection of fruit.  In the small white appellation of Condrieu (about 350 planted acres), the vineyards are on a continuation of the steep slopes of Cote-Rotie to the north, on well-draining decomposed granite soils.
Guigal is a famous producer of classic reds from the Northern Rhone …

Viognier is the flagship white grape variety of the Northern Rhone.  While Cote-Rotie may blend up to 20% of viognier in their red wines, viognier reaches its ultimate expression in Condrieu where it must make up 100% of the wine.  Viognier is also made into a sweet wine in the small appellation and monopole of Chateau Grillet.  Viognier is one of the great “aromatic” whites with intense floral aromas and characteristic apricot flavors.  It is a grape with naturally high sugars which means higher alcohol wines of 14% or so and …

US imports of rosé wines grew 42% for the twelve months ending April 2009 compared to 5% growth in the overall table wine category.  This phenomenal increase suggests US consumers’ growing appreciation for dry rosé wines as well as their attractive price point in recessionary times.  Until a few years ago, rosé wines meant domestic white zinfandel or “blush” wines with 25-35 grams of residual sugar.  As consumer tastes have evolved to drier wines and to international wines, many consumers have discovered rosé wines from France.  France is the largest producer of …

A nice base for us visiting the Southern Rhone was the Hotel Bellerive in Rasteau.  It is “homey”, very quiet, with beautiful views of vineyards and the Dentelles de Montmirail.  It is within half an hour to Vinsobres, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Beaumes-de-Venise and the Cotes du Rhone Villages of Seguret, Sabelet and Cairanne.  Like most hotels in rural wine regions, don’t expect wifi or even a reliable wake-up call, but they do have the most hospitable cat I have ever come across, and good breakfasts. 
Favorite Restaurants:
Les Florets in Gigondas.  One of the best …

The Northern and Southern Rhone share the moderating effects of the Rhone River, the Mistral and share a few grapes varieties.  But in terms of climate, soils, terrain and wine styles, they are quite different.  The Northern Rhone has a continental climate, slightly cooler, less sunny and slightly wetter than the South which is more Mediterranean.  The Mistral – the cool wind from the North – has less impact in Cote-Rotie, the narrowest part of the Rhone, and only begins to pick up speed in Hermitage where the Valley begins to widen.  The …

If you are not arriving from the North, a good way to start a visit of the Rhone Valley is starting from the South, in Avignon.  It is a quick 3 hour 20 minute train on the TGV from Charles de Gaulle and there are many things to do in this major city, the least of which is visiting the Palace of the Popes.
InterRhone, the Rhone Wine Council, is based in Avignon, so prior to heading out to wine regions, you may want to stop here first.  There are many resources such as maps …

The Rhone Valley officially begins in Vienne which is just about  25 miles south of Lyon on the A7.  The Rhone Valley is divided between the Northern Rhone and Southern Rhone which are quite different in climate and soils, but they have a few important things in common.  They both share the moderating effects of the Rhone River, varying degrees of the cool wind from the North, the Mistral, and certain grape varieties used to different extent such as Syrah and the whites Viognier, Marsanne and Rousanne.
Within the Rhone Valley, there are the “Cotes du …

The Northern Rhone produces predominantly dry red wines and the sole red grape is Syrah.  Cote Rotie is allowed to blend in up to 20% of the aromatic white Viognier grape whereas in Cornas to the South, the wines must be 100% Syrah.  The allowance for up to 20% Viognier in Cote Rotie is not solely for floral character, but to add body and alcohol to Syrah grown in the northernmost part of the Northern Rhone where Syrah does not always ripen fully.  At Guigal, the famous Cote Brune vineyard is co-planted with …