The current Fall 2009 special edition of Wine & Spirits Magazine features a story on “Best Land to Grab” highlighting five lesser known areas that have potential to grow fine wine grapes, from England’s limestone coast to the Istria Peninsula in the Adriatic.  But what about investing in a classic wine region that produces world benchmark rieslings?  That would be the Mosel wine region in Germany.  The production costs are high, but the vineyard land is cheap.
Production costs are high due to the steep vineyard slopes of the Mosel some …

For someone who grew up in California and spent a certain amount of time in Berkeley, the word “co-op” always had that granola cache for me - one shopped at a cooperative to serve the higher purpose of helping the members, not necessarily for finding quality.  In Europe, where the majority of vines are tended by small growers, cooperatives are an economic necessity and an important part of the industry business structure.   In France and Italy, coops represent more than 50% of production, in Germany about 1/3 and in Spain over 2/3 rd’s (although for the latter you would rarely see much …

Successful wine marketing in today’s modern wine industry centers around value-for-money (low price and high quality), public relations and distribution, all driven by a strong brand.  Ernst Loosen of  Germany’s Mosel wine region delivers on all fronts.  His face and brand are everywhere, whether promoting his wines, riesling wines or opining on climate change.   His riesling wines are exported to 63 countries around the world and in different styles to meet local demand.  Dr. Loosen is widely distributed in the U.S., from retail chains to specialty shops or as exclusive label to the French Laundry …

There are times when one is so struck by the quality of a producer’s wines  across-the-board  that they leave a lasting impression on you.  Chateau Saint Cosme in Gigondas in the southern Rhone is one of them and it changed the way I felt about Gigondas wines.  When we visited him in June, Louis Barruol had a boyish, relaxed charm about him as he strolled down the hill to greet us, his big fluffy dog bouncing behind him.  But as he led us around the property, there was no questioning the casual aristocracy laying beneath the 14th generation …

2008 was a cool and wet vintage in the Northern Rhone which led to some flowering problems in the Spring, disease pressure and vigor.  The best producers have steep, well-draining vineyard sites and practice active canopy management to allow aeration and maximize fruit exposure.  Most importantly, they hand harvest for severe selection of fruit.  In the small white appellation of Condrieu (about 350 planted acres), the vineyards are on a continuation of the steep slopes of Cote-Rotie to the north, on well-draining decomposed granite soils.
Guigal is a famous producer of classic reds from the Northern Rhone …

Viognier is the flagship white grape variety of the Northern Rhone.  While Cote-Rotie may blend up to 20% of viognier in their red wines, viognier reaches its ultimate expression in Condrieu where it must make up 100% of the wine.  Viognier is also made into a sweet wine in the small appellation and monopole of Chateau Grillet.  Viognier is one of the great “aromatic” whites with intense floral aromas and characteristic apricot flavors.  It is a grape with naturally high sugars which means higher alcohol wines of 14% or so and …

US imports of rosé wines grew 42% for the twelve months ending April 2009 compared to 5% growth in the overall table wine category.  This phenomenal increase suggests US consumers’ growing appreciation for dry rosé wines as well as their attractive price point in recessionary times.  Until a few years ago, rosé wines meant domestic white zinfandel or “blush” wines with 25-35 grams of residual sugar.  As consumer tastes have evolved to drier wines and to international wines, many consumers have discovered rosé wines from France.  France is the largest producer of …

This photo was taken at a Lyon farmer’s market the day before a week-long tour of the Rhone Valley. It was a bright and sunny Sunday morning and I was full of anticipation for the wine and culinary adventure ahead of me. It was my first visit to Lyon, which I knew to be a bastion of fine dining, and walked the historic section to take in all of the wonderful aromas wafting from the bakeries and bistros getting set-up for the Sunday rush. The farmer’s market whetted my appetite …

The Pfalz aka the “Palatinate” lies to the east of the Haardt Mountains, a continuation of the Vosges Mountain range in France.  Just as the Vosges acts as a rainshadow from westerly rains for the Alsace wine region to the south, so does the Haardt provide shelter for the Pfalz.  It is the among the driest and warmest German wine regions, allowing for a wider variety of grapes to be grown.  In addition to the Riesling, the Pfalz grows white mueller-thurgau aka rivaner (as in “Black Tower”), kerner, silvaner, weissburgunder (pinot blanc), …

If you are deciding which classic wine region to visit next, Germany is a great choice.  The major wine regions in Germany are clustered in the West/Southwest within a two-hour’s drive of Frankfurt International Airport (FRA).  Bernkastel in the Mosel wine region is about 85 miles to the west; Rudesheim in the Rheingau is only 30 miles or so to the south and the Pfalz is about 75 miles away.   Other pluses, many Germans speak English and the highways are modern and fast.
The world-class wines to taste are the white rieslings, which can range …